Katherine Jones

TLP Interviews Lucy Jackson

May 23, 2008 by Rene

Lucy Jackson is a recent graduate of the De Montfort Contour Programme. TLP interviewed Lucy via email over April and May of 2008. Q: How did you end up at De Montfort?
A: My lifelong ambition has been to work within costume design, which lead me to DMU to focus on corsetry and garments that relate closely to the body.

Q: How was the programme at DMU?
A: I had a wicked three year course at DMU studying contour fashion and received first class honours.

Q: Did you take part in student competitions?
A: I had various competitons set to the year by industry, where I came third, second and eventually first.

Q: Were you able to do any internships or work placements?
A: I managed to gain work placements at Amanda Wakeley, Birmingham Royal Ballet, and George at Asda, and also helped at the Amanda Wakeley London Fashion Week show the other year.

Q: Did you complete a senior project at DMU?
A: I did complete a senior project. The changing silhouette of the past and of today has predominantly been a result of the body-distorting garments we wear, and have worn in order to please society or our own ideals. It is this intrigue that has lead me to delve deeper into the realms of control over another person, or another form – especially the inanimate.

The ideas of restricting the body and playing with proportions are mixed with literal implications of the puppet, strings seen by vertical stripes and cording techniques, and separate limbs and ball joints reflected in dividing panels emphasized by contrasting boning channels.

Photos from Katherine Jones

Q: What have you been doing since graduating?
A: I finished Uni last June/July, and after a lot of thinking I decided that I wasn’t going to head straight into the fashion industry from Uni. I want to carry on my studies in an MA Costume Design course. As tuition fees were a little out of my range straight from Uni I decided to move home, and work various jobs to earn the money.

Q: Have you stopped working in fashion?
A: I am keeping my finger in the contour/fashion industry, with such opportunities as Alternative Fashion Week. I have been selected to show my collection, so I am currently trying to get everything sorted for that – bit stressful.

Q: (After AFW) How did the show go?
A: AFW was great — stressful but all good. Things are very busy at the minute, following the success of AFW I am in the research/design process of a new collection which takes great inspiration from the 1920s, so I am exploring further into past fashions and broadening my knowledge of historical dress. With busy days I mainly work on my collections in the evenings and weekends – which often means some sleepless nights, but hopefully it will all be worth it [Read more…] about TLP Interviews Lucy Jackson

Claire Hughes Interview

April 28, 2008 by Rene

Claire Hughes is a young graduate of De Montfort University. She currently works for a UK lingerie conglomerate. TLP asked Claire about her career so far. Q: How did you get into the lingerie industry?
A: I went to De Montfort to study contour fashion as I had a interest in corsetry and the structure of a garment. I completed the course with a 2:2.

Q: When did you finish at DMU?
A: I finished De Monfort (Contour Programme) last year.

Q: How long did it take?
A: The course took three years to complete. It was the best time I have had so far — meeting new people and making really good friends.

Q: What did you like most about the programme?
A: The thing I most enjoyed about the course was learning corsetry, which was one of the reasons why I decided to study at De Montfort. I don’t really have a thing that I liked the least I just had a really good time at university and I like to think I made the most of it.

Q: Did you complete a final project?
A: I researched and investigated 1920’s control underwear. I produced six individual outfits, making it into something that could be worn by modern women. I wanted the collection to have the feel of the 1920’s. I also wanted to materialize the independence and freedom that women were gaining every day in social and political venues, but keeping the line sexy.

Q: Do you keep in touch with other DMU alum?
A: Yes, not as much as I would like but we all keep in touch on facebook.

Q: Where are you working now?
A: I am currently working for a lingerie company in the UK as a fabric technologist?

Q: What does a fabric technologist do?
A: I manage critical paths, which means I sit in conference calls with the factories and members of our team discussing what is out-standing, what needs to be brought forward, and what needs to be a priority. I also work with fabrics to ensure the colour is consistent with standards that have been approved for the entire production: lab dips, bulk, pre-production garments, and gold seals (the final product). I also communicate with customers when they require colour assistance with lab dips, bulks, and test reports . I also review and approve reports for fabrics that have been undergone customer scrutiny.

Contact Claire Hughes

Photos courtesy of Katherine Jones

Charlotte Sparey Designs

April 16, 2008 by Rene

TLP interviews Charlotte Sparey. Charlotte Sparey is a unique design talent combining a love and understanding of the history of lingerie and corsetry with a deep commitment to environmental responsibility and sustainable fabrics.

Q. Tell us about your background.
A. I went to Demontfort University and did BA Contour Fashion which has been going for 50 years and still stands today as the only course in the world doing in-depth lingerie, corsetry, swimwear and basque design and construction.

Q. Did you complete a final project for the programme?
A. My final collection ‘Una Pinch, Awareness Collection’ has been based around the issues of the environment today. I wanted my customer to feel they where wearing a quality product with quality values. My construction focus was on the soft cup bra, reinventing classic shapes like the 60’s Berlie bra for the modern women, creating modern support using eco friendly raw materials.

Q. Eco friendly lingerie is a popular trend. We’ve seen seaweed and wood blends. (Read the archives). What sort of materials were you working with?
A. Coconut button details made from reclaimed coconut shells from a coconut milk factory. PJ top and shorts have silk moths printed on 40% hemp 60% silk fabric produced in the hills of China in a combination hemp and silk farm where workers have rights on there working conditions. Structural pieces like waspie’s, girdles, suspender belts and corset bras have been recycled from charity garments and backed with hemp. Organic cotton jersey, trims, elastics, threads and strapping as we have had many issues in Africa and Russia with pesticide poisoning.

Q. Sounds like you are very committed to this issue and that you have first hand experience with sourcing many of the materials. Are you working internationally?
A. I have just finished a 6 month contract with Shibani Inwear in Mauritius working as a lingerie design consultant which including working on collections with Playtex and Triumph. I worked on seamless knitted garments in a vertically integrated manufacturer which is still very much a revolutionary form of seam-less which I developed both seamless knitting and cut and sew bras.

Q. What are you doing now?
A. I am currently looking for a job in South Africa.

Q. Why don’t we review some of your pieces from you Una Pinch series?
A. These are very make do mend pieces with an awareness underlining tone. All garment come with ticket information about the raw products it was made and how far these products have traveled to be part of the piece. These garments are to be worn with pride as they are truly guilt free. Pieces range from £50.00-£250.00

The night dress was hand painted with cotton fields and has a recycled shirt front with coconut button.

Girdle – Recycled Charity checked cloth, Lined with hemp canvas and organic cotton. All Binding, boning case, rose trim and elastic are Organically produced and certified. Racerback Bra & Knicker set – This racerback shape, front fastened, silk/hemp lined bra, is non-wired with a metal double busk front. Also has boned side seam that combines to create a milk maid bursting bust of support. Both knicker and bra have charity cotton, hemp/silk and organic cottons.

Corset Bra & Suspender Belt – This short corset has been designed to boost the bust vintage style with a metal front busk and high racer back lacing. The suspender has been made as a matching set with charity cloth and organic cottons. Knicker – Compliments this tweed set with a lavish of silk/hemp with a hint of lacing throughout the rear.

V-shaped bra + knicker set – This silk soft cup bra has been designed with influence from the 60’s Berlie bra. It’s centre front triangle shape becomes the main support of which a floating cradle comes from to support and boost the bust without the need for a wire. The silk cups sit underneath the cradle and holds the silhouette from the support of the front triangle. The knickers flow through from the waspie with provocative lacing over the bum. Waspie – The waspie follows the bra with a contrasting triangle of silk/hemp and gives the waist a pinched silhouette with lavishes of lacing through the back. This also follows the charity cloth and organic cotton as seen through the collection.

Photos from Katherine Jones (site) (TLP)

Contact Charlotte

Bespoke Bridal: BrierAnim UK

April 15, 2008 by Rene

BrierAnim was formed in late 2007 after its founders, Anne Brierley and Mercy Anim, discovered that their talent for Fashion, Design and Dress Making was becoming ever increasingly popular. Starting from their home office near Leighton Buzzard, they first provided a service to friends and family. Now, BrierAnim provide a service all over the UK.

This partnership looks to have been formed at De Montfort. The ladies behind the label have focused on everything bridal including gowns, bridesmaid gowns, corsetry, lingerie, and special occasion wear (aka Honeymoon).

BrierAnim strives to deliver the best in high-quality, reasonably-priced Wedding Fashion, using the very best skills and materials, we’ll provide you with a finished product that will ensure a truly magical day.

Although they mostly specialize in bespoke services, BrierAnim provides some photographs of their work. It is unlikely you will find a plain, white dress as they have recently focused on “East meets West and North meets South. Wedding Dress Design for a Multi-Cultural World”.

Dresses:

BrierAnim provides these guidelines for pricing.

The average cost of a Bridal gown including fitting, pattern cutting production and basic design sketch is around £1500.
The price can rise above this depending on the complexity of the dress, the fabric used, the amount of beading and embroidery detail and if the client desires a full design service which would include more detailed design illustrations with fabric swatches.
Adult Bridesmaid Outfits start at around £250 and children from around £150, again depending on fabric choice and design complexity.
Special occasion wear, prom dresses and made to measure outfits start at around £250.

Bridesmaid:

Lingerie:

Corsetry:

More Photos:

From Katherine Jones

Contact BrierAnim

Lingerie From the Other Side of the Camera: Katherine Jones

April 5, 2008 by Rene

TLP takes a peek at the other side of the lens. This time, TLP is talking to Katherine Jones of London.

Q: Tell our readers about your self.
A: In terms of background info, I studied photography at college before going to Chelsea College of Art, London to study Textile Design and then onto The Fashion Institute of Technology NYC to study Fashion Design. There I fell in love with lingerie design while taking an Intimate Apparel class, so I transferred my degree to Contour Fashion at De Montfort, being the only student ever to complete the degree in one year and finishing with First Class Honours.

Q: How did you make your move into photography?
A: After graduation I worked as a freelance lingerie designer, then as Head of Design for By Caprice Lingerie, before taking a career break and reinventing myself as a fashion and lingerie photographer. I’ve been running my own business Katherine Jones Photography for two years now and have studios in South Wales and Greenwich London.

Q: For the Lingerie shoots, have you mainly worked with other DeMontfort alumni?
A: I’ve got very close links with De Montfort – I was a graduate myself, coming away with a First Class Honours degree in Contour Fashion. So it seemed a natural market for me (even though I shoot for the students at a huge discount!) as I’m providing to a wish-list that I myself would’ve created after graduating. Shooting lingerie is relatively new to me, so before moving into the wider market, the alumni gave me a proving ground from which to hone my skills in this area. To the best of my knowledge there are no other photographers working at my level who shoot for the alumni, so it’s a pleasure to be able to provide them with this kind of service.

Q: Are you accepting any new clients?
A: A new London-based contract with a magazine and media agency has seen the work increase five-fold, but I am very lucky insofar as I was able to negotiate a ‘non exclusive’ agreement to the agency. I’m still open to any client that wants me!

Q: How does the process work? Does the designer have a vision of the final picture? Do you? How much collaboration?
A: I art direct all of my shoots which puts me in a great position to work closely with the designer really getting to grips with their vision of both the collection and the final image. How much collaboration goes on depends on the designer, but most are happy for me to follow my own vision of the images. I ensure that the locations, props, models, hair and make-up emphasise the photography as much as possible, so the finished pictures really work to flatter the designs.

Q: How long is each session?
A: Including hair, make-up and lighting set-ups, an average session usually takes between 8-10 hours; a full day’s shooting. Larger collections are shot over two or more days.

Q: Does a single model changing into lots of outfits save money over a couple of models that are ready to shoot?
A: A single model changing into a number outfits can certainly save money if the collection is small enough to be shot in one day (usually up to 10 outfits). But if there’s a large number of outfits to get through it’d usually be at the cost of the final image. Models can get tired after a long day which means that their expressions can wane or they lose focus, so I wouldn’t recommend it for larger collections.

Katherine shared some of her portfolio and described each photo.

Loutka – Inspired by Tim Burton, puppets and broken dolls. Lingerie by Lucy Jackson

Brieranim – Images to launch bespoke, bridalwear and bridal lingerie company Brieranim. Lingerie by Anne Brierley

Something Blue – Images to launch debut collection by Jessie Lou Lingerie inspired by Marie Antoinette. Lingerie by Jessica Clatworthy

Sundae – Inspired by a contrasting mix of refined toile de jouy and erotic dancing. Lingerie by Holly Cavenon

Porcelain – Inspired by the emerging freedom of the 1920’s woman. Lingerie by Claire Hughes

Wisteria – Inspired by a game of ‘peeping Tom’ and lonely housewife. Lingerie by Charlotte Sparey

Contact Katherine Jones for more information.