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Charlotte Sparey

Charlotte Sparey Designs

April 16, 2008 by Rene

TLP interviews Charlotte Sparey. Charlotte Sparey is a unique design talent combining a love and understanding of the history of lingerie and corsetry with a deep commitment to environmental responsibility and sustainable fabrics.

Q. Tell us about your background.
A. I went to Demontfort University and did BA Contour Fashion which has been going for 50 years and still stands today as the only course in the world doing in-depth lingerie, corsetry, swimwear and basque design and construction.

Q. Did you complete a final project for the programme?
A. My final collection ‘Una Pinch, Awareness Collection’ has been based around the issues of the environment today. I wanted my customer to feel they where wearing a quality product with quality values. My construction focus was on the soft cup bra, reinventing classic shapes like the 60’s Berlie bra for the modern women, creating modern support using eco friendly raw materials.

Q. Eco friendly lingerie is a popular trend. We’ve seen seaweed and wood blends. (Read the archives). What sort of materials were you working with?
A. Coconut button details made from reclaimed coconut shells from a coconut milk factory. PJ top and shorts have silk moths printed on 40% hemp 60% silk fabric produced in the hills of China in a combination hemp and silk farm where workers have rights on there working conditions. Structural pieces like waspie’s, girdles, suspender belts and corset bras have been recycled from charity garments and backed with hemp. Organic cotton jersey, trims, elastics, threads and strapping as we have had many issues in Africa and Russia with pesticide poisoning.

Q. Sounds like you are very committed to this issue and that you have first hand experience with sourcing many of the materials. Are you working internationally?
A. I have just finished a 6 month contract with Shibani Inwear in Mauritius working as a lingerie design consultant which including working on collections with Playtex and Triumph. I worked on seamless knitted garments in a vertically integrated manufacturer which is still very much a revolutionary form of seam-less which I developed both seamless knitting and cut and sew bras.

Q. What are you doing now?
A. I am currently looking for a job in South Africa.

Q. Why don’t we review some of your pieces from you Una Pinch series?
A. These are very make do mend pieces with an awareness underlining tone. All garment come with ticket information about the raw products it was made and how far these products have traveled to be part of the piece. These garments are to be worn with pride as they are truly guilt free. Pieces range from £50.00-£250.00

Charlotte Sparey Designs

The night dress was hand painted with cotton fields and has a recycled shirt front with coconut button.

Charlotte Sparey Designs

Girdle – Recycled Charity checked cloth, Lined with hemp canvas and organic cotton. All Binding, boning case, rose trim and elastic are Organically produced and certified. Racerback Bra & Knicker set – This racerback shape, front fastened, silk/hemp lined bra, is non-wired with a metal double busk front. Also has boned side seam that combines to create a milk maid bursting bust of support. Both knicker and bra have charity cotton, hemp/silk and organic cottons.

Charlotte Sparey Designs

Corset Bra & Suspender Belt – This short corset has been designed to boost the bust vintage style with a metal front busk and high racer back lacing. The suspender has been made as a matching set with charity cloth and organic cottons. Knicker – Compliments this tweed set with a lavish of silk/hemp with a hint of lacing throughout the rear.

Charlotte Sparey Designs

V-shaped bra + knicker set – This silk soft cup bra has been designed with influence from the 60’s Berlie bra. It’s centre front triangle shape becomes the main support of which a floating cradle comes from to support and boost the bust without the need for a wire. The silk cups sit underneath the cradle and holds the silhouette from the support of the front triangle. The knickers flow through from the waspie with provocative lacing over the bum. Waspie – The waspie follows the bra with a contrasting triangle of silk/hemp and gives the waist a pinched silhouette with lavishes of lacing through the back. This also follows the charity cloth and organic cotton as seen through the collection.

Photos from Katherine Jones (site) (TLP)

Contact Charlotte

Filed Under: Charlotte Sparey, Eco Lingerie, Hemp Lingerie, Interviews, Katherine Jones, Shibani Inwear

Lingerie From the Other Side of the Camera: Katherine Jones

April 5, 2008 by Rene

TLP takes a peek at the other side of the lens. This time, TLP is talking to Katherine Jones of London.

Q: Tell our readers about your self.
A: In terms of background info, I studied photography at college before going to Chelsea College of Art, London to study Textile Design and then onto The Fashion Institute of Technology NYC to study Fashion Design. There I fell in love with lingerie design while taking an Intimate Apparel class, so I transferred my degree to Contour Fashion at De Montfort, being the only student ever to complete the degree in one year and finishing with First Class Honours.

Q: How did you make your move into photography?
A: After graduation I worked as a freelance lingerie designer, then as Head of Design for By Caprice Lingerie, before taking a career break and reinventing myself as a fashion and lingerie photographer. I’ve been running my own business Katherine Jones Photography for two years now and have studios in South Wales and Greenwich London.

Q: For the Lingerie shoots, have you mainly worked with other DeMontfort alumni?
A: I’ve got very close links with De Montfort – I was a graduate myself, coming away with a First Class Honours degree in Contour Fashion. So it seemed a natural market for me (even though I shoot for the students at a huge discount!) as I’m providing to a wish-list that I myself would’ve created after graduating. Shooting lingerie is relatively new to me, so before moving into the wider market, the alumni gave me a proving ground from which to hone my skills in this area. To the best of my knowledge there are no other photographers working at my level who shoot for the alumni, so it’s a pleasure to be able to provide them with this kind of service.

Q: Are you accepting any new clients?
A: A new London-based contract with a magazine and media agency has seen the work increase five-fold, but I am very lucky insofar as I was able to negotiate a ‘non exclusive’ agreement to the agency. I’m still open to any client that wants me!

Q: How does the process work? Does the designer have a vision of the final picture? Do you? How much collaboration?
A: I art direct all of my shoots which puts me in a great position to work closely with the designer really getting to grips with their vision of both the collection and the final image. How much collaboration goes on depends on the designer, but most are happy for me to follow my own vision of the images. I ensure that the locations, props, models, hair and make-up emphasise the photography as much as possible, so the finished pictures really work to flatter the designs.

Q: How long is each session?
A: Including hair, make-up and lighting set-ups, an average session usually takes between 8-10 hours; a full day’s shooting. Larger collections are shot over two or more days.

Q: Does a single model changing into lots of outfits save money over a couple of models that are ready to shoot?
A: A single model changing into a number outfits can certainly save money if the collection is small enough to be shot in one day (usually up to 10 outfits). But if there’s a large number of outfits to get through it’d usually be at the cost of the final image. Models can get tired after a long day which means that their expressions can wane or they lose focus, so I wouldn’t recommend it for larger collections.

Katherine shared some of her portfolio and described each photo.

Loutka – Inspired by Tim Burton, puppets and broken dolls. Lingerie by Lucy Jackson

Loutka - Lingerie by Lucy Jackson

Brieranim – Images to launch bespoke, bridalwear and bridal lingerie company Brieranim. Lingerie by Anne Brierley

Brieranim

Something Blue – Images to launch debut collection by Jessie Lou Lingerie inspired by Marie Antoinette. Lingerie by Jessica Clatworthy

Jessie Lou

Sundae – Inspired by a contrasting mix of refined toile de jouy and erotic dancing. Lingerie by Holly Cavenon

Holly Cavenon

Porcelain – Inspired by the emerging freedom of the 1920’s woman. Lingerie by Claire Hughes

Porcelain - Claire Hughes

Wisteria – Inspired by a game of ‘peeping Tom’ and lonely housewife. Lingerie by Charlotte Sparey

Wisteria - Charlotte Sparey

Contact Katherine Jones for more information.

Filed Under: Anne Brierley, Brieranim, Charlotte Sparey, Claire Hughes, Holly Cavenon, Interviews, Jessica Clatworthy, Jessie-Lou, Katherine Jones, Lucy Jackson

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