National Geographic Channel provides a detailed examination about the engineering of the bra. The show is part of the “Man Made” series. Archives of the show highlights are available online.

• National Geographic Overview
• National Geographic Video Clip
• Facts from National Geographic
• Illustrated facts from NBC tie in
• Teaser video from NBC Today show featuring Maidenform
• National Geographic Blog
• National Geographic Weekend radio (mp3)

Photo courtesy of National Geographic.

Not only will the event promote and recognize achievement in intimate apparel design, but also acknowledge the strides made to promote self-esteem and a positive body image. The Recognition Award for Promoting Healthy Body Image through the Media will be granted to the dynamic Carson Kressley of Lifetime’s How to Look Good Naked for his tireless efforts to encourage and celebrate women of all shapes and sizes.

Over the next few weeks, TLP will feature a sampling of the brands participating in the Gala as well as provide up to the minute information about the finalists as they are selected. And, of course, all of the post show details will be available for your enjoyment! Stay tuned!

If you are a buyer in the intimate apparel industry and wish to purchase a ticket to attend, please contact Contours Associate Publisher Marjorie Walker at:  ContoursMag@verizon.net

Also known as the Biniki for women, Maniki for men, and Throng because a “thong is just wrong”, this newest ”lingerie invention” seeks to support and hold the butt up firm. Already a huge success in Japan, it is an odd looking contraption that can be worn over or under the panties or thong. It basically has a strap underneath the cheeks of the bum preventing them from sagging and keeping them firm, full and round.

The official website is quite informative showing the possible uses of the ButtBra, how to wear the “reargear” as the company calls it, and general information on the benefits of wearing the item.

You really have to see this one to believe it!

Q: How did you get started in the industry?
A: I worked for a fetish designer in Hamburg and soon started my own lingerie line, as I always thought that is what latex is made for: sexy lingerie.

Q: Did/do you work with fabrics other than latex?
A: I shoot with other fabrics, but I manufacture only latex-lingerie. for Fun I do sometimes hats and bags non-latex, but thats it.

Q: What special techniques are needed to work with latex?
A: I think you have to be skilled to work with your hands and fingers, as you don’t use machines to do it, and you have to be patient.

Q: How would you divide up your customer base?
A: That is very hard to say as I usually don’t meet my customers, I only sell over the internet and an email is all I get.

Q: Did you get formal training for your craft?
A: No, my teacher was an self-trained artist and I got most of my knowledge from him. I always thought about studying or getting a formal training, but I have more fun in being free and and just keep on doing things.

Q: Your collection mixes traditional lingerie design, fetish design, and some pencil skirts done in latex. How do you decide what pieces to create?
A: I just do what I like to see on my models and put it in my shop and see if other people like it as well. I don’t have a straight business plan and enjoy just doing what I feel like. Luckily my customers like my style and so I get along quite well with it.

Q: How do you go from sketch to sale?
A: I store my sketches sometimes years, and then I discover them again and have a shooting and as soon as there is a photo, I can put it in my shop!

Q: Is their a mix with off the peg and bespoke work?
A: I mostly do made-to-measure when people order my outfits because I ask for the measurements anyway.

Q: Have you found cross-over appeal with traditional fashion and your molded stockings?
A: Many designers use stockings and gloves as accessories nowadays. It was exciting at the beginning, but by now it is boring again, at least for me. Often magazines lend my outfits, but at the end they only used the stockings and gloves. I guess they feel the rest is still too much “fetish”. I don’t share that opinion.

Q: You have a great sense of modern pinup styles like the Valence Suspender Skirt and the Cup Body and the Hotpant. Where do you find inspiration?
A: Pin-up is always everywhere I guess. You don’t have to be a fan of pin-up to be influenced by it. It is just very feminine and cute and that is what I like. I don’t see my style very pin-up, but most people do. I find inspiration everywhere, but mostly I am inspired by my models. when I retouch photos and see their bodies on my screen, different outfits pop up in my mind.

Q: Do you have plans to expand your market or does the Internet provide the reach you need?
A: I am very happy with my online-shop and I appreciate the freedom it gives me. I have often thought about expanding, but then I would be trapped with a company I am responsible for. I want to keep it small and flexible for the moment.

Find out more at Katja’s sites:
http://www.fraeulein-ehrhardt.de/
http://www.highglossdolls.com/
Shop online
Photos courtesy of Katja Ehrhardt.

Fashion and Contour Design – BA Honours Programme

• Mode(s): Full-time, part-time
• Duration: Three years full-time, six years part-time (day-time)
• Provides a unique opportunity to specialise in the creative and technical design aspects of contour and fashion design
• Supported by dedicated staff and technical resources
• Opportunity to produce an innovative range/collection of clothing
• The only degree course in the world to specialise in lingerie, underwear, bodywear, swimwear and performance sportswear
• Established in 1947 for the Leicester corset industry, Contour Fashion recently celebrated its 60th anniversary
• Maintains close links with the contour industry and educates specialist designers for a wealth of creative roles in the UK and worldwide
• Opportunities to work with companies on live projects, work placements and competition awards
• Supported by the ACE Style Institute, offers a specialist facility at DMU designed to bring all aspects of the contour fashion supply chain together
• Highly experienced teaching staff who advise contour fashion companies globally

What is expected of the enrolling students?

• Students should normally have a good portfolio, plus one of the following
  • Successful completion of an Art and Design Foundation course
  • National Diploma merit profile in a relevant subject
  • 240 points, to include two GCE/VCE A Levels with grade C in one art or design subject
• All equivalent international qualifications are welcome, as are applications from mature students (21+) with alternative qualifications and/or work experience
• International students require an English language qualification of IELTS 6.0, TOEFL 550/213, GCSE/GCE O Level grade C or equivalent

How is the teaching of the programme handled?

The teaching of the course includes formal lectures, group seminars, tutorials, presentations, practical workshops and studio-based activities. Assessment generally occurs at the end of each term with informal critiques held at appropriate times throughout the year.

How expensive is the programme?

• Overseas students: £8955 per year
• EU students: £3070 per year
• Please note that fees are subject to change each year. Overseas students are eligible for a 5% discount if fees are paid in full at the beginning of the course
• DMU offers some scholarships as well as an Art and Design bursary, currently £750. Visit dmu.ac.uk/international for detail

DMU also offers short courses.

• Bra Fitting
• Bra Making
• Bra Pattern cutting & Grading
• ‘Plus Sizes’ Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading
• Quality Assurance in the Imtimate Apparel Industry
• Structured Lingerie & Swimwear Design with Adobe Ilustrator

The short courses are usually 2-4 days long.

Who has graduated from the programme?

• Charlotte Sparey
• Anne Brierley
• Chloe Hamblen

Find out more here: http://www.dmu.ac.uk/Subjects/Db/coursePage2.php?courseID=4511

Here are some sketches from the programme.

Q: When did you finish at DMU?
A: I finished De Monfort (Contour Programme) last year.

Q: How long did it take?
A: The course took three years to complete. It was the best time I have had so far — meeting new people and making really good friends.

Q: What did you like most about the programme?
A: The thing I most enjoyed about the course was learning corsetry, which was one of the reasons why I decided to study at De Montfort. I don’t really have a thing that I liked the least I just had a really good time at university and I like to think I made the most of it.

Q: Did you complete a final project?
A: I researched and investigated 1920’s control underwear. I produced six individual outfits, making it into something that could be worn by modern women. I wanted the collection to have the feel of the 1920′s. I also wanted to materialize the independence and freedom that women were gaining every day in social and political venues, but keeping the line sexy.

Q: Do you keep in touch with other DMU alum?
A: Yes, not as much as I would like but we all keep in touch on facebook.

Q: Where are you working now?
A: I am currently working for a lingerie company in the UK as a fabric technologist?

Q: What does a fabric technologist do?
A: I manage critical paths, which means I sit in conference calls with the factories and members of our team discussing what is out-standing, what needs to be brought forward, and what needs to be a priority. I also work with fabrics to ensure the colour is consistent with standards that have been approved for the entire production: lab dips, bulk, pre-production garments, and gold seals (the final product). I also communicate with customers when they require colour assistance with lab dips, bulks, and test reports . I also review and approve reports for fabrics that have been undergone customer scrutiny.

Contact Claire Hughes

Photos courtesy of Katherine Jones

Could you introduce yourself, and talk us through how you ended up in the lingerie business after exploring so many other avenues?

My name is Nancy Yoo and I am the owner/designer of Fleur’t Lingerie. I ended up in the fashion industry because I think it really affords me the opportunity to wear so many different hats and also allows me on a daily basis to express my creativity. It’s no joke “ this is a VERY difficult business, but I still love that I am able to do so many different things all in the span of one week. I think lingerie is the most exciting growth area within fashion and lingerie people allow themselves to explore difference in a way that I think the ready-to-wear designers don’t or can’t. People in lingerie are a little more willing to take a risk. It’s fun and inspiring.

What was most important as you initially began to develop your collection?

Wearability and fit, first and foremost. And after that, color. Lots of it!

What was the most challenging part of the design and marketing process?

This is a business and that means finding out what sells and doesn’t sell, which collections are strongest and why and then making sure you can bring that spirit into the line again and again can make the difference between whether you’re going to survive or not. I’d say that’s the most challenging part of the melding between design and marketing.

Practically speaking, I think finding the right sales representative is the most difficult part of having a fashion business.

I think the name of a line speaks volumes. How did you decide to name your line “Fleur’t?”

I hired a friend of mine who is a branding genius. We had one breakfast meeting during which he asked me to describe my line in a few words. I said, “fresh, flirtatious and feminine.” He scribbled something down, held it up for me to look at and asked, “How about “fleur’t”?” I said, “Great!” And because we were friends, he barely charged me anything for his work.

Why do you think your collection has been able to stand out and be successful?

I think we offer something special but also very comfortable and comforting for women. Our fabric and laces are so soft and conform so well to women’s bodies – it’s the kind of lingerie that women wear for themselves. This has a strong, broad appeal.

Since you’ve experienced so much success with your collection thus far, how do you continue to create innovative pieces?

We are at a point where we really want to hone our branding process through creating our own prints and offering special Fleur’t packaging. We are also working on growing our loungewear into a solid collection that can be sold in ready-to-wear stores just as easily in lingerie store.

Which design (if you can pick just one!) is your personal favorite for next Spring?

The Amber bralette. It’s a bralette that’s cut out of our beautiful, rose galloon Amber lace and lined with lightweight nylon mesh. It’s available in white, black, lemongrass, orchid and sky. I am a 34C and cannot fit into other bralettes, but this one is a soft cup with a lot of support and great fit and coverage. Also, it’s just super pretty with lace that looks adorable peeking out of camisoles and button-down shirts. There is a matching low-cut lace thong boy as well.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

From a designer’s perspective, I would like to have branched out into ready-to-wear. But from a larger perspective, my husband (who works with me) and I have great dreams of creating this economically and ecologically responsible company that takes care of the people who devote their lives to it. We are into preventive healthcare and alternative medicine and want to create a wellness center at work for our Fleur’t employees. We are also very interested in fostering a work/play/live culture that’s closer to those in countries like France, Germany and Italy, where 5-6 week vacations are taken for granted. We are already looking at ways to increase our productivity by cutting our work hours down to 35 hours a week. I strongly feel that allowing ourselves rest and renewal time leads to higher productivity and overall happiness.

I have to say that designing clothes is a very rewarding part of what I do, but what truly excites me is knowing that I am in a unique position to create this dynamic, new workplace.

Anyway — I actually think this is interesting. I mean — I like the whole bra-less look, but it’s just not realistic on certain occasions. There’s just one little thing: it’s been done before! Oh well — I suppose the marketing budget Wonderbra has (apparently they’re a Sara Lee brand, oh my) will be the difference between top or flop in the nipple bra area…

Big thanks to Polly and Libération (in French).

The interview with Jennifer can be found right here — here’s a little teaser though:

“With my work, I don’t want it to ever be trashy. I want it to be sophisticated. I get inspired by fabrics and I like new silhouettes. A lot of it is instinctual, especially with colors. Personally, I have always liked trend forecasting. For instance, I’ll think of a color palette months in advance and then just commit to it. It’s just a feeling. I am also inspired by vintage pieces, but not of any particular time period. I also travel to Paris twice a year. I look at fabrics, but I look at everything else as well.”

Continue reading the complete interview right here…

If you want a more personal experience than a website can offer, they also host lingerie parties in the US, where you can design your lingerie by picking the fabrics and extras in person. Wouldn’t that be a great idea for a bachelorette party? Everyone could make pieces for themselves, or put a personal spin on a standard present by designing lingerie for the bride-to-be instead of buying it off the shelf. The company is less than a year old, so I can’t wait to see what new products they offer further down the line. I personally am hoping for maybe some underwire bras, so I could wear my creations day in and day out. This could get addicting!